205w39nyc calvin klein by raf simons

UNIFORM SHIRT COTTON TWILL P/F 2019

This is one of the iconic shirts from Raf’s time at CK which made its debut in the A/W 2017 show in several colors in a beautiful wool. This version is a mid weight cotton twill that has a great boardiness to it, it holds shape really well which works great with how very straight it is paired with the volume in the back. I love these shirts, they’re a clear linage between Raf’s CK and Helmut with his combo color work shirts from his Jeans collection in the 90s, and the influence of an American uniform shirt. The construction on these shirts is hem and the white broadcloth along the inside yoke as well under collar and pockets it’s all such finishing that makes the piece feel more special. Taking such a utilitarian garment and concept like the uniform shirt and elevating it in such a way is a perfect example of where 205W39NYC excelled.

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HELMUT LANG